WITHIN just over two hours drive from Athens, we zip past the seaside town of Akrata and start ascending the curvy mountain roads, past villages that it takes just minutes to drive in and out of. The landscape is breathtaking, with a massive, imposing mountain wall on one side, cobalt blue sea on another, and lush vegetation growing all around. With our windows rolled down on this gloriously warm, early May day, the sweet smells of grass and leaves wet by flowing spring water, bright aromatic flowers and pungent herbs, pour through our windows in an intoxicating wave.
As we reach the 3000 year-old village of Seliana, we follow detailed directions until we come to a picturesque old church with a large plain tree and swings next to it, then spotting Re-Green’s unassuming entrance – a stone-built, square Mycenaean-style archway (a reference to the finds excavated on the land there). As we park we are greeted by Flery Fotiadou, who runs the place with her partner Christos Alexiou, and who waves us in with a dazzling smile. “Are you hungry?” she calls out, “we’ve just started lunch!” Now that’s what I call perfect timing. We join Flery and Christos and their two benches-full of guests in the outdoor “hangout” eating area, immediately feeling as though we are among friends – a feeling that doesn’t change throughout our stay.